A common question that
shows up in modeling forums goes something like: "Why is my paint job
so rough?".
I
had the same problem when I first started using my airbrush.
The
simple answer is that the paint is partially drying before it hits the
surface. The airbrush atomizes the paint so finely that
drying is
almost instantaneous.
Another common problem is that the paint
has an orange peel look, or even runs. This can happen if you
apply too much paint, too fast.
Both of these problems are
affected by several variables, including paint consistency, air
pressure, distance from the surface, and speed of brush movement.
Maybe you are one of those people to whom paint application comes
naturally, and you can produce great results right off.
I
am not one of those. It took me a while to get the feel of
it.
In the process, I got pretty frustrated. It's especially
frustrating if you're trying to paint something that matters, like a
model that you have spent a lot of time on. And, it's very
easy
at this point to blame the brush. But there was nothing wrong
with the airbrush, I just had to learn to use it.
If you ask for
help on a forum, you will no doubt be told to practice, practice,
practice. Well, that is really what it takes, along with
experimenting with things like thinning, distance, and air pressure.
So be prepared to spend some time learning to use your
airbrush.

But,
let me recommend
that you practice on something disposable, like plastic bottles.
They are free and they take paint just like a kit.
Buy some of the paint you plan on using and experiment with
all the variables until you have a feel for the brush and can
consistently produce a nice smooth coat. It will be money and
time well spent. I wish I had done this in the beginning.
I
still keep a couple of bottles handy and give them a couple of shots
before spraying a model. And, if I have any paint left over
in
the cup, I use it for practice on a bottle. See samples on
the
right. I also use them any time I try something new.
For
instance, decals vary quite a bit in their tolerance to decal setting
solutions. So I always find something on a sheet that I don't
need on the model and try it on a bottle first. That way I
know
what to expect when I do the real thing.
If
you spend any time on airbrush forums, you will see the terms dots,
lines and daggers. There is a good explanation of these at
Airbrush-guidance.com. They
are a good way to get a feel for the brush.
What I did was to use a roll of paper towels and an old
bottle of
ink. If you can't make fine lines with ink, you surely won't
with
paint. Practice until it comes as second nature to press down
for
air, pull back for spray, let the trigger go forward to stop the spray,
and then release the trigger to stop the air. I've read that
some
people have modified their brushes so that the air is on all the time.
But to me that seems a little Mickey Mouse.
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